The order of your routine matters more than you think. Learn the professional method for layering active ingredients, serums, and treatments to maximize results without irritation. I'm breaking down the exact sequence I use in the studio—and the common mistakes that might be sabotaging your glow.
The Golden Rule: Thinnest to Thickest
After years of treating clients in my studio, I've seen one mistake more than any other: applying products in the wrong order. The fundamental principle is simple—layer from thinnest to thickest consistency. This ensures each product can properly penetrate the skin and do its job.
But there's more to it than just texture. Here's the exact sequence I recommend:
The Professional Layering Sequence
Step 1: Cleanser Always start with clean skin. This isn't technically "layering," but it's non-negotiable. Your products can't work their magic on a dirty canvas.
Step 2: Toner or Essence These watery formulations prep your skin and enhance absorption of everything that follows. Think of them as creating a hydrated base layer.
Step 3: Serums (Lightest to Heaviest) This is where most of the active ingredients live. If you're using multiple serums, apply the thinnest one first. Water-based serums always come before oil-based ones.
Here's a common sequence:
- Vitamin C serum (morning)
- Hyaluronic acid serum
- Treatment serums (niacinamide, peptides, etc.)
Step 4: Eye Cream The delicate eye area gets its own moment. Gently pat—never rub—around the orbital bone.
Step 5: Moisturizer This seals everything in and provides that final layer of hydration and protection.
Step 6: Face Oil (Optional) If you use a facial oil, it typically goes after moisturizer. Oils create a barrier, so anything applied after won't penetrate as effectively.
Step 7: SPF (Morning Only) Never skip this. Always the last step in your morning routine, no exceptions.
The Active Ingredient Exception
Here's where it gets nuanced. Some actives need special consideration:
Retinol: I recommend applying retinol to completely dry skin, which might mean waiting a few minutes after your toner. Some estheticians prefer it before moisturizer, others after—both work, but before allows for better penetration.
Chemical Exfoliants (AHAs/BHAs): These often work best on clean, dry skin immediately after cleansing. If you're using a pH-dependent active like vitamin C, apply it first.
Prescription Treatments: Always follow your dermatologist's specific instructions for prescription products.
Common Layering Mistakes I See
Mistake #1: Mixing Incompatible Actives Certain ingredients don't play well together. Avoid combining:
- Retinol + Vitamin C (use one in the morning, one at night)
- Retinol + AHAs/BHAs (unless your skin is very tolerant)
- Vitamin C + Niacinamide (debated, but I prefer to separate them)
Mistake #2: Not Waiting Between Steps Give each product 30-60 seconds to absorb before applying the next. Your skin needs time to drink in each layer.
Mistake #3: Over-Layering More isn't always better. I typically recommend 5-7 steps maximum. Your skin can only absorb so much, and over-layering can lead to pilling, breakouts, and product waste.
Mistake #4: Applying Eye Cream After Moisturizer Eye cream should go on before your face moisturizer. The lighter texture allows it to penetrate properly.
My Personal Morning Routine (For Reference)
- Gentle cleanser
- Hydrating toner
- Vitamin C serum
- Hyaluronic acid serum
- Eye cream
- Lightweight moisturizer
- SPF 50
My Evening Routine
- Double cleanse (oil cleanser, then water-based)
- Hydrating toner
- Treatment serum (alternating retinol and peptides)
- Eye cream
- Rich moisturizer
- Facial oil
The Bottom Line
Layering is both an art and a science. These guidelines will serve most skin types well, but remember—everyone's skin is different. Pay attention to how your skin responds and adjust accordingly. If you're ever unsure about your routine, that's exactly why I'm here. Book a consultation and we'll create a customized layering strategy that works for your unique skin.
